A Perfect Afternoon in Oslo
On our Norway tour last year, we’d deliberately built in some free time in Oslo – the kind of time that’s made for wandering rather than planning. No must-see lists, no rushing from landmark to landmark. Just the freedom to explore and see what the city might offer up.
Our group slowly got smaller as people peeled off in different directions, drawn in by shops, galleries and whatever caught their eye. By lunchtime, a few of us found ourselves in a shady square in the heart of Oslo, settling into outdoor chairs at a café that felt instantly welcoming.
Lunch was everything you hope for while travelling. Delicious, unfussy food. A relaxed, local atmosphere. People drifting past, conversations flowing. It was casual, unpretentious and quietly perfect.
At the time, we thought we’d simply found a lovely place for lunch.
We hadn’t realised we’d stumbled into one of Oslo’s most historic institutions.
The café we didn’t know we’d found
The café was Engebret, and little did we know that Engebret is widely considered Oslo’s oldest restaurant, located near the National Theatre in the heart of the city. Established in 1857, it remains a favourite with both locals and visitors looking for a historic place to eat in Oslo.
Named after its founder, Engebret Christoffersen, the café was established when Oslo was still known as Christiania (and that’s another story for another day). This part of the city was the cultural heart of town, thanks to the nearby theatre, and Engebret quickly became a favourite meeting place for actors, artists and writers.
For more than 160 years, it has quietly played host to pre-show nerves, post-show celebrations, spirited debates, creative breakthroughs – and no doubt the occasional dramatic dummy spit.
While Engebret Christoffersen himself has long since left the building, the place he created has endured through wars, changing fashions and shifting food trends.
In very Norwegian style, it hasn’t tried to reinvent itself. It’s simply been well cared for.
When I ducked inside later with my camera, it all made sense. Polished timber, intimate dining rooms, portraits lining the walls. The space feels lived in rather than staged – as though everyone involved understands they’re custodians of something special, not just running a restaurant.
Still beautifully looked after, still welcoming, and still doing what it’s always done best – serving good food in a setting where conversation clearly matters.
Actors, theatre… and an unexpected mystery
Near the entrance, tucked away in the stairwell, are a series of plaques commemorating theatre productions and performances connected to the area. A quiet nod to Engebret’s long-standing relationship with Oslo’s performing arts scene.
Most of them are exactly what you’d expect.
And then there’s one that makes you stop. Well, only if you are Australian.
A face. Familiar. Unmistakable. And completely unexpected in a nearly 170-year-old restaurant in the centre of Oslo.
I stood there far longer than planned, staring at it, wondering how on earth that face might have found its way onto the wall of one of Norway’s most historic cafés.
I have theories.
But I’ll leave that mystery right there.
Another small mystery, right there at the table
As if the history and the stairwell face weren’t enough, something else quietly surreal happened while we were sitting outside.
A lovely older Norwegian couple walked past our table. As the man passed, he smiled warmly, gave us a thumbs up and said something along the lines of:
We support you. Hang in there.
We all looked at each other. Slightly confused. Slightly amused. And then it dawned on us.
Something had happened to us that normally only happens to Canadians.
He thought we were American.
Once we realised what he meant, we quickly jumped in.
Oh no, we’re Australian.
The reaction was instant. His face changed completely.
Ah! Australian! So far. Welcome, welcome, welcome to Norway, to Oslo. Enjoy your time!
Another thumbs up. A big smile. And off he went.
It was such a small interaction, but somehow perfectly summed up the whole afternoon – unexpected, oddly touching, and quietly funny. Another little moment that made Engebret feel like more than just a place to eat, but a place where stories happen.
Why I love moments like this
This is exactly why we leave room to wander on our tours.
If we’d been rushing from one highlight to the next, Engebret would have been just another café we walked past. Instead, it became a shared memory – a relaxed lunch, an unexpected history lesson, and a small mystery that still keeps me guessing.
It’s a reminder that some of the best travel experiences aren’t planned at all. They happen when you slow down, follow curiosity, and let a place reveal itself in its own time.
Perfect timing (of course it was)
One last little twist to finish the story.
As we paid the bill and wandered off, I turned back to take one final photo. And just at that exact moment, the maître d’ was flipping the little chalkboard sign around at the entrance.
It now read:
Apologies, we are closed for the summer.
We had been the last customers before they shut the doors.
After 160+ years of service, countless meals, stories, actors, artists and accidental travellers… we just happened to arrive on their final lunch of the season.
Thank you, Engebret.
I think I’m ready for the encore.
If you’re up for it, I’ll save you a seat.
Are you in?
Join Suzanne in Norway and/or The Baltics, July 2026
